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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.