Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
